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Rappelling with an Autoblock: Your Third Hand on the Rope
Posted on September 6, 2025

Rappelling with an Autoblock: Your Third Hand on the Rope

Facts

Rappelling with an Autoblock: Your Third Hand on the Rope

Rappelling – or abseiling, if you’re feeling European – is a total blast. But let’s be real, hanging off a cliff by a rope isn’t exactly risk-free. That’s why seasoned climbers swear by backup systems, and the autoblock is a top pick for adding a serious safety net. Think of it as your “third hand” on the rope. Mess up? Lose your grip? This little buddy’s got you covered.

So, what exactly is an autoblock? Simply put, it’s a friction hitch – kind of like a fancy knot – tied around your rappel rope. If things go south and you let go, it cinches tight and stops you dead in your tracks. No more runaway descents!

Why bother with an autoblock? Here’s the lowdown:

  • Safety, plain and simple: It’s your insurance against a total yard sale if you fumble the rope.
  • Hands-free heaven: Need to untangle a snag? Want to snap a quick photo (safely, of course!)? The autoblock lets you stop and use both hands without plummeting.
  • Smooth and steady wins the race: Especially on those overhanging sections, an autoblock helps you keep your speed in check. No more wild, uncontrolled swings!

Alright, let’s talk gear. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Your trusty rappel device: An ATC or belay device will do the trick.
  • Locking carabiners: A couple, maybe three, depending on how you set things up.
  • Accessory cord: This is key. Grab a loop of 5mm to 7mm nylon cord. I usually aim for a loop around 44-48 inches. Some folks even use paracord, but I prefer nylon for this.
  • A comfy harness: One with leg loops, naturally.

Ready to set this thing up? Here’s how it’s done:

  • Make a loop: Tie the ends of your accessory cord together with a double fisherman’s knot. Leave a little tail – an inch or two – just to be safe.
  • Hook it to your harness: Clip the autoblock cord to your leg loop with a locking carabiner. Some climbers like to attach it to their belay loop, especially if they’re using a rappel extension. It’s all about personal preference.
  • Wrap it up: Now, wrap the autoblock cord around the rappel rope below your rappel device. Start above the rope and work your way down, putting on 3 or 4 wraps. The number of wraps depends on how thick your cords are – thinner cord, more wraps.
  • Clip it in (again!): Clip that carabiner on the autoblock cord to your leg loop. Make sure the gate is facing up.
  • Okay, you’re rigged. Time to rappel!

  • Pre-flight check: Before you go over the edge, give that autoblock a test run. Make sure it slides smoothly when you’re not putting weight on it, and that it grips like crazy when you do. Also, double-check that the knot won’t get jammed in your rappel device. Trust me, you don’t want that surprise.
  • Hand placement is key: Keep both hands below the rappel device. One hand controls your speed, the other manages the autoblock. I like to have my dominant hand on the rope and my other hand on the autoblock.
  • Smooth operator: Squeeze the autoblock with your thumb and forefingers to keep it from grabbing too early. This gives you control over your descent.
  • Coming to a stop: Just let go of the autoblock and let it do its thing. Try not to stop too suddenly – it can be a bit of a jolt.
  • Back in action: To start moving again, push the top part of the autoblock down, away from the rappel device. That’ll loosen the hitch and get you moving.
  • A few things to keep in mind:

    • Cord length matters: Too long, and it’ll get tangled. Too short, and it won’t work right.
    • Placement is everything: Always put the autoblock below your rappel device. Above? Bad idea.
    • Extend yourself: Using a sling to extend your rappel device away from your harness gives you more room to work and keeps the autoblock out of the way.
    • Practice makes perfect: Don’t learn this on a real climb! Practice in a safe spot first.
    • Gear check, every time: Ropes, cords, carabiners – check ’em all for wear and tear. Your life depends on it.
    • Watch those buckles!: Make sure the carabiner on your autoblock doesn’t accidentally pop open your leg loop buckle. Seriously.

    The good and the not-so-good:

    Pros:

    • A serious lifesaver when things go wrong.
    • Gives you hands-free capability.
    • Pretty easy to learn.

    Cons:

    • Can be a little jerky compared to other methods.
    • Takes some practice to get smooth.
    • Can jam up if you don’t set it up right.

    The Bottom Line

    Look, the autoblock is a fantastic tool for safer rappelling. Get to know it, practice with it, and make it a part of your climbing routine. And remember, climbing is all about having fun, but safety always comes first. So, gear up, be smart, and enjoy the ride!

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