How do you use a dual piston caliper compressor?

Gear Up and Get Safe:

• First things first, gather your supplies. You’ll need the compressor (obviously!), new brake pads, a wrench for the caliper bolts, brake cleaner (that stuff is magic), a lug wrench, a jack, jack stands (crucial!), and safety glasses. Seriously, wear the glasses. Brake dust in the eye is not fun.
• Safety first, people! Make sure your car’s parked on level ground, the parking brake’s on tight, and those wheels are chocked.
• Before you even lift the car, loosen those lug nuts on the wheel you’re working on. Makes life easier later.
• Jack up the car and get it safely supported on jack stands. Never, ever work under a car that’s only held up by a jack. That’s just common sense.
• Finally, yank that wheel off to expose the brake assembly.

Caliper Access Time:

• Give everything a good once-over. Look for any signs of damage to the caliper, brake lines, or anything else. Better to catch problems now than later.
• Find those caliper bolts holding the caliper to the bracket. Wrench them off carefully. Pay attention to how they’re oriented; you’ll need to put them back the same way.
• Gently slide the caliper off the rotor. If it’s being stubborn, a little wiggle usually does the trick. Just be careful not to yank on that brake line!
• Don’t let the caliper dangle by the brake line! That’s a big no-no. Use a bungee cord or some wire to hang it from the suspension, taking the strain off the hose.

Compressing Those Pesky Pistons:

• Pop out the old brake pads. Say goodbye to those worn-out fellas.
• Give those pistons a good cleaning with a rag and some brake cleaner. You want to get rid of any gunk that could make them stick.
• Position the compressor so each end is sitting squarely against a piston. Make sure everything’s lined up properly.
• Now, slowly and steadily squeeze the handle or turn the screw on the compressor. Watch those pistons retract. They should move in evenly. If one’s fighting you, stop and double-check your tool positioning.
• Keep going until the pistons are fully retracted, sitting flush with the caliper body. This gives you maximum room for those fresh, thick brake pads.

New Pads and Reassembly:

• Slide those shiny new brake pads into the caliper. Make sure they’re seated correctly in their little clips or slots.
• Carefully slide the caliper back over the rotor, lining it up with the bracket.
• Bolt the caliper back on, tightening those bolts to the manufacturer’s torque spec. This is important! Too loose, and things could come apart. Too tight, and you could strip the threads. Check a repair manual for the right number.
• Put the wheel back on, and snug up the lug nuts by hand in a star pattern.
• Lower the car back to the ground and torque those lug nuts to spec. Again, check your manual for the right number.

Finishing Touches:

• Give that brake pedal a good pumping. This re-seats the pistons against the new pads. The pedal should feel firm.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir. Top it off if needed.
• Take it for a spin! Do a careful test drive in a safe spot to make sure everything’s working as it should. Listen for weird noises and check that you’ve got good stopping power.