How do you take care of Picasso calla lilies?

Getting to Know and Grow Your Gorgeous Picasso Calla Lily

The Picasso Calla Lily – isn’t that just the perfect name? It’s like a painter splashed violet and cream onto a classic bloom. These beauties aren’t just pretty faces, though. They bring a touch of the tropics right to your garden or living room with those elegant, fluted flowers and refined foliage. Standing tall at about 18 to 24 inches, they’re fantastic in pots, snug in garden beds, or just making a statement all on their own. So, whether you’ve got green thumbs or are just starting out, let’s dive into how to keep your Picasso Calla Lily happy and thriving.

What Makes a Picasso a Picasso?

Okay, so what sets this calla lily apart? It’s all about the colors! Imagine creamy yellows, fiery oranges, soft reds – sometimes even a flirt of dark purple or black around the edges. And here’s a cool thing I’ve noticed: the colors seem to deepen as the flower matures, like it’s putting on its best dress for a grand finale. They’ve got that classic calla lily trumpet shape, all curved and elegant. They don’t get too big, either, usually topping out around 18 to 24 inches, which makes them super versatile for all sorts of garden designs.

Where and When to Plant

Timing is everything, right? Wait until spring has really sprung. I’m talking after the last frost has waved goodbye and the soil feels nice and warm – at least 65°F (around 18°C).

Now, location, location, location! Picasso callas are sun-lovers, but they’re not drama queens. They adore basking in full sun, but can handle a bit of light shade too. Aim for at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. If you live somewhere super hot, a little afternoon shade is a good idea.

As for soil, think Goldilocks: not too wet, not too dry, but just right. They like moist, well-drained soil that’s slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0 to 7.0). If your soil is heavy or clay-like (we’ve all been there!), mix in some organic matter like compost or peat moss to help with drainage.

When you’re planting, pop those rhizomes (that’s the fancy word for the underground stems) about 3 to 5 inches deep and space them 4 to 6 inches apart. Make sure the little growing points are facing up. Then, water gently until you see some action.

Water, Light, and Temperature: Keeping it Just Right

Watering is a balancing act. You want to keep the soil consistently moist, especially when they’re actively growing in spring and early summer. But, and this is a big but, don’t let them sit in soggy soil. Root rot is a real buzzkill. Good drainage is your friend here.

After they’re done blooming and the leaves start to fade, ease up on the watering. They’re getting ready for a little nap.

These guys like it warm and sunny, ideally between 60°F and 80°F (15°C to 27°C). They’re tropical at heart, so protect them from frost. Anything below 50°F (10°C), and they might just decide to call it quits for the season.

Feeding Time!

During the growing season (spring to summer), give your Picasso a little boost every 4 to 6 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Something like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 mix works great. But remember, more isn’t always better! Too much fertilizer, and you’ll end up with a lot of leaves and not so many flowers. Follow the instructions on the label, and maybe even dilute it a bit to be on the safe side.

A Little Pruning Goes a Long Way

To keep your plant looking its best, snip off any spent flowers. Just cut the flower stalk above the leaves. This encourages the plant to keep those blooms coming. And, if you’re growing them indoors, feel free to trim back the stems and leaves once the flowers are done to keep things tidy. Yellow or brown leaves? Gone!

Winter is Coming: Overwintering Tips

If you live in a place with cold winters (like zones 3-7), you’ll probably treat your Picasso callas as annuals. But, if you’re feeling ambitious, you can save the rhizomes for next year. After the first frost, dig them up, let them dry out, trim off the foliage, and store them in a cool, dry spot (around 50°F or 10°C). I usually wrap mine in newspaper or pop them in a paper bag. Just check on them now and then to make sure they’re not getting too damp or too dried out.

If your Picasso is an indoor plant, just ease up on the watering and fertilizing during the winter months.

Pesky Pests and Diseases

Good news: calla lilies are pretty tough cookies. But, every now and then, you might find aphids, spider mites, or mealybugs trying to move in. A little insecticidal soap or neem oil usually does the trick.

The biggest worry is root rot, which comes from soggy soil. So, make sure your soil drains well, and don’t overwater. Good airflow helps too!

Making More: Propagation

Want more Picasso callas? Divide the rhizomes every few years in early spring. Just carefully separate them, making sure each piece has a growing point, and replant them in fresh soil. Easy peasy!

Troubleshooting: What’s Wrong With My Lily?

Yellowing leaves? Could be a few things: too much water, not enough nutrients, or too much sun. Tweak your watering, give it some fertilizer, and adjust the light.

Leggy growth (tall and spindly with few flowers)? It probably needs more light. Move it to a brighter spot, especially if it’s indoors.

Bonus Tips!

• Deer tend to leave these alone, which is always a plus.
• They’re happy in containers, and actually seem to like being a little root-bound.
• Those gorgeous blooms make fantastic cut flowers.
• Just a heads-up: all parts of the plant are toxic if eaten, and the sap can irritate skin and eyes. So, keep them away from kids and pets.

There you have it! With a little love and attention, your Picasso Calla Lily will reward you with a stunning show of color and elegance. Happy gardening!