Half Dome, Free Climbed: Tales of Grit, Granite, and Sheer Audacity

Half Dome, Free Climbed: Tales of Grit, Granite, and Sheer Audacity

Half Dome. Just the name conjures images of Yosemite’s grandeur, that iconic granite face daring climbers to test their limits. And free climbing it? That’s another level entirely. We’re talking about scaling thousands of feet of rock, relying solely on your skill, strength, and a whole lot of nerve. No ropes pulling you up, no gear to lean on – just you and the stone. So, who are these folks crazy enough to dance on Half Dome’s vertical canvas? Let’s dive into some of the most incredible ascents.

Back in the day, getting up Half Dome was a different beast altogether. Royal Robbins and his crew were the first to conquer the Regular Northwest Face in ’57, but they weren’t exactly “free climbing.” They used ropes and gear to haul themselves up – a common practice then. The route was initially graded VI 5.9 A1.

Fast forward nearly two decades, and you’ve got Jim Erickson and Art Higbee pushing the boundaries. In 1976, they came this close to freeing the whole thing. Seriously, they almost nailed it, free climbing everything but one ridiculously tough section near the top, a 5.12c pitch. They had to use aid there. Can you imagine the frustration? That was Erickson’s tenth attempt to free Half Dome! Their effort was groundbreaking, establishing free climbing variations on much of the route.

Then, in 1980, along came Leonard Coyne, who found a free variation to the final aid pitch and completed the first free ascent of the Regular Northwest Face!

And then, in the summer of ’93, Todd Skinner, along with Paul Piana, and later with Nancy Feagin, completed the first free ascent of the Direct Northwest Face of Half Dome. Talk about dedication!

But let’s be honest, when most people think of free climbing Half Dome, one name instantly springs to mind: Alex Honnold.

September 6, 2008. Mark that date. That’s when Honnold turned the climbing world on its head. He strolled up the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.12a, 23 pitches) – without a rope. Free solo. Two hours and 50 minutes. Boom. Legend status achieved.

I remember when I first heard about it. I thought, “This guy’s either insane or a superhero.” Maybe a bit of both?

Honnold, of course, wasn’t a stranger to the route. He’d climbed it roped before, including a free ascent the year prior, and another just two days before his heart-stopping solo. He even used a slightly different variation on one pitch (the Higbee Hedral, 5.12a) and a 5.10 variation around the Robbins Traverse. Interestingly, Honnold himself considered it technically easier than his free solo of Moonlight Buttress. However, the sheer length and the need for unwavering focus near the end made it an incredibly demanding experience.

And if that wasn’t enough, in late May 2012, Honnold decided to set a speed record, soloing the Regular Northwest Face in a mind-blowing 1 hour and 22 minutes! Seriously, the guy’s a machine.

Of course, Honnold isn’t the only climber to make his mark on Half Dome.

Jim Reynolds is another name you should know. A super versatile climber, Reynolds is known for his bold ascents. In 2018, he and Brad Gobright linked Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome all in a single day. Talk about an epic link-up! Reynolds has also free-soloed extensively in Yosemite and Patagonia.

And let’s not forget Tommy Caldwell, who partnered with Honnold to free climb those three grade VI walls (Watkins, El Capitan, Half Dome) in a day. These guys are pushing the limits of what’s humanly possible.

Now, a little about the Regular Northwest Face itself. It’s a Grade VI big wall route, the first of its kind in the United States. The free climbing variation clocks in at a solid 5.12. Think steep corners, blank faces, and a series of exposed ledges. It’s a serious undertaking. A major rockfall in July 2015 changed pitches 10 and 11 significantly, adding another layer of complexity.

So, there you have it. Free climbing Half Dome is a testament to the human spirit, a blend of skill, courage, and a healthy dose of obsession. While many have tried, only a select few have truly conquered its granite walls without aid. Alex Honnold’s free solo might be the most famous, but it’s just one chapter in the ongoing story of climbers pushing the boundaries on this magnificent peak. It makes you wonder, what’s next?