Posted on October 1, 2025Strip Down: If your wheel is already set up, remove the tire, tube, and any old rim tape.
Clean Sweep: Give the rim bed a good scrub with isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag. Get rid of any gunk that could mess with the tape.
Tape it Up:
Valve Time: Use a pointy tool to poke a clean hole through the tape at the valve hole. Don’t go too big!
Stem Installation: Pop the valve stem into the hole and tighten it with the locking nut. Snug is good, but don’t go crazy.
One Bead Down: Mount one side of the tire onto the rim, just like you would with a regular tire.
Sealant Injection:
Second Bead In: Carefully wrestle the remaining bead of the tire onto the rim. Tire levers can help, but be gentle with that rim tape!
Pump it Up!:
Seal the Deal:
Pressure Perfect: Once the sealant has done its thing, adjust the tire pressure to your sweet spot.
Ditch the Tubes: A Real-World Guide to Going Tubeless
FactsDitch the Tubes: A Real-World Guide to Going Tubeless
Okay, let’s talk tubeless. If you’re a cyclist constantly battling flats, craving a smoother ride, or just looking for a performance edge, converting to tubeless tires might just be your holy grail. I’ve been riding tubeless for years, and honestly, I wouldn’t go back. This guide will walk you through the whole process, from understanding what tubeless is all about to getting your hands dirty and making the switch.
What’s the Deal with Tubeless Anyway?
Simply put, tubeless means ditching the inner tube. Instead, you create an airtight seal between the tire and rim, with a magical liquid sealant inside that plugs punctures as they happen. Think of it like self-healing tires – pretty cool, right?
Why should you even bother? Here’s the lowdown:
- Flat-out fewer flats: Remember those dreaded pinch flats, where you hit a bump and the tube gets squeezed between the rim and tire? Gone! Sealant also takes care of most punctures before you even notice them.
- Float like a butterfly: You can run lower tire pressures without the pinch flat risk. This means more tire touching the ground, giving you better grip and control – especially sweet on those tricky corners.
- Smooth operator: Lower pressures also let the tire soak up bumps and vibrations, making your ride way more comfy. Say goodbye to that bone-jarring feeling!
- Rollin’, rollin’, rollin’: Some say tubeless tires roll faster than traditional tires with tubes. I’m not a scientist, but I feel faster, and that’s what matters, right?
- Light as a feather: Losing the tube shaves off some weight, especially where it counts – on the wheels. Lighter wheels mean quicker acceleration and easier climbing. Every little bit helps!
Now, it’s not all sunshine and rainbows. Here’s the reality check:
- Cash money: Tubeless-ready gear can be pricier than standard stuff.
- A bit fiddly: Setting up tubeless can be a little more involved than slapping in a tube. Patience is your friend.
- Mess alert!: Sealant can get messy, especially if you have a big puncture or during installation. Keep some rags handy.
- Maintenance matters: You gotta check and top up the sealant every now and then. Think of it like watering a plant.
- Compatibility check: Not all rims and tires play nice together. Make sure you have the right combo.
Tubeless-Ready: Are You Good to Go?
Before you dive in, make sure your wheels and tires are actually designed for tubeless. Look for “tubeless-ready” or “tubeless compatible” markings.
- Tubeless-ready rims: These have a special shape to hold the tire in place and usually need tubeless tape to seal the spoke holes.
- Tubeless rims: Also called UST (Universal System Tubeless), these are specifically made for tubeless setups and have extra features for a super-secure seal.
- Tubeless-ready tires: These have a strong bead and casing that lock onto the rim and hold air when used with sealant.
If your rims aren’t tubeless-ready, you might be able to get away with a DIY “ghetto tubeless” conversion, but honestly, I wouldn’t risk it. It’s just not worth the potential safety issues.
Gear Up: What You’ll Need
- Tubeless-ready tires
- Tubeless-ready or tubeless compatible rims
- Tubeless rim tape: Get the right width! It should match the inside of your rim, plus a little extra (1-2mm) for good measure.
- Tubeless valve stems: Get ones with removable cores – trust me, it makes life easier.
- Tubeless sealant: Pick one that suits your riding style and tires. There are tons of options out there.
- Valve core removal tool
- Tire levers: Plastic ones are your best bet to avoid scratching your rims.
- Floor pump or air compressor: A pump designed for tubeless is ideal, but a regular floor pump can work with some elbow grease.
- Isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag: For cleaning the rim – cleanliness is next to godliness, after all.
- Scissors or a sharp knife: For trimming the rim tape.
- Sealant injector (optional): This makes adding sealant way less messy. Worth the investment, in my opinion.
Let’s Do This: The Tubeless Conversion Process
- Start taping one spoke hole before the valve hole.
- Pull the tape tight as you go, stretching it firmly onto the rim.
- Overlap the tape by a few inches past the valve hole to make sure it’s sealed tight.
- Snip the tape with scissors.
- Press the tape down firmly with your thumb, smoothing out any air bubbles or wrinkles.
- Remove the valve core with your removal tool.
- Shake that sealant bottle like you mean it!
- Use the injector or the bottle’s nozzle to squirt the right amount of sealant into the tire through the valve stem. Check the sealant instructions for how much to use. If you’re going old-school, carefully pour the sealant into the tire before you seat the second bead.
- Make sure the tire is sitting evenly on the rim.
- Pump it up to the recommended pressure (check the tire sidewall).
- You might need to go a bit higher than usual at first to get the beads to seat properly.
- A tubeless-specific pump or air compressor is your friend here, as they blast in a lot of air quickly.
- Listen for a “pop” as the tire beads snap into place. That’s the sound of success!
- Spin the wheel and give it a gentle bounce to spread the sealant around inside.
- Keep an eye out for any leaks around the tire bead and valve stem.
- If you spot a leak, rotate the wheel so the sealant pools at that spot.
Uh Oh! Troubleshooting Time
- Tire Won’t Inflate:
- Make sure the tire beads are sitting in the middle of the rim.
- Take out the valve core for maximum airflow.
- Wrap a strap around the tire to force it against the rim.
- Bring out the big guns – an air compressor.
- Air Leaks:
- Double-check the rim tape for damage or bad installation.
- Make sure the valve stem is nice and tight.
- Add more sealant. When in doubt, add more sealant.
- Sealant Spewing Through Sidewall:
- This happens sometimes with new tires. Don’t panic! It should stop after a ride or two as the sealant fills in the tiny holes.
- Major Puncture:
- Carry tire plugs or a spare tube for those “oh crap” moments when the sealant can’t handle it.
Keep it Fresh: Maintenance Tips
- Pressure Check: Tubeless tires lose air faster than tubed ones, so check the pressure before every ride.
- Sealant Refresh: Sealant dries out, so check it every few months and top it off as needed.
- Inspect and Protect: Regularly check your tires for cuts and embedded stuff. Also, give the rim tape a once-over to make sure it’s still in good shape.
- Valve TLC: Sealant can clog valve cores, so clean or replace them when they get sticky.
Sealant Showdown: My Top Picks
Choosing a sealant is like picking a favorite ice cream flavor – it’s personal! But here are some popular choices:
- Stan’s No Tubes: The OG sealant. Reliable and seals well.
- Orange Seal: Another solid choice, with different formulas for different riding styles.
- Muc-Off No Puncture Hassle: This stuff has long fibers that help seal bigger holes.
- Peaty’s Holeshot Biofibre: An eco-friendly option that still gets the job done.
Final Thoughts: Go Tubeless and Ride On!
Switching to tubeless tires can be a game-changer for your cycling experience. Sure, it might take a little effort to set up, but the benefits are totally worth it. Fewer flats, better grip, smoother ride – what’s not to love? So, give it a shot, and get ready to roll!