Denali: More Than Just a Mountain, It’s a Beast

Denali: More Than Just a Mountain, It’s a Beast

Okay, so you’re thinking about climbing Denali, huh? Mount McKinley, the Big One – whatever you call it, know this: it’s not just a walk in the park. At 20,310 feet, it’s North America’s tallest peak, and let me tell you, it earns every single foot of that elevation. It’s a brutal, beautiful monster that demands respect, serious prep, and a will of iron.

The stats alone should give you pause. Every year, around a thousand people take a crack at Denali. Now, here’s the kicker: only about half of the unguided folks make it to the top. Guided trips fare a little better, maybe 60% success. But even with a Sherpa-like expert holding your hand, there’s no guarantee you’ll be planting your flag on that summit. And let’s not sugarcoat it – this mountain can be deadly. Historically, we’re talking about 3 deaths for every 1,000 climbers. Thankfully, things have improved over the years with better gear and techniques. Still, Denali claimed 96 lives between 1903 and 2006. Just last year, in 2023, someone died on the West Buttress after getting hit hard by altitude sickness. They got him off the mountain, but sadly, he didn’t make it.

What makes it so tough? Well, for starters, the weather is just plain nasty. Picture this: you’re close to the Arctic Circle, and the mountain itself is generating its own special brand of extreme cold. We’re talking temperatures that can plunge to -30°F, even -40°F. And the wind? Forget about it! It’ll cut right through you, raising the risk of frostbite to a whole new level. Plus, these storms can last for days, trapping you in your tent and eating away at your precious supplies.

Then there’s the altitude. Up there, the air is thin – seriously thin. You’re dealing with about half the oxygen you’re used to at sea level. This lack of oxygen messes with your head, your heart, your lungs, your appetite, even your sleep. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is practically a given. Think headaches, nausea, and feeling like you’ve got the worst flu ever. And if you’re really unlucky, you could end up with HACE or HAPE – nasty altitude-related illnesses that can kill you.

That’s why acclimatization is key. You can’t just hop off a plane and expect to waltz to the summit. You’ve got to take it slow, gaining altitude gradually and throwing in plenty of rest days. The old saying “climb high, sleep low” is your mantra.

And don’t even get me started on the technical stuff. The West Buttress, the most popular route, is basically one giant glacier trek. You’ll need to know your way around crampons and have crevasse rescue skills dialed in. Oh, and did I mention you’ll be hauling a sled loaded with all your gear? That takes serious muscle and stamina. There’s even a headwall above the 14,200-foot camp that involves snow and ice climbing on slopes up to 40 degrees. Fixed ropes are there to help, but it’s still a tough climb.

So, what do you need to tackle Denali? Well, for starters, this isn’t a beginner’s mountain. You need serious mountaineering experience, glacier travel skills, crevasse rescue know-how, and winter camping chops. Think about cutting your teeth in the High Cascades in Washington. You should be able to wield an ice axe like a pro, be comfortable in crampons, and know your knots.

Gear-wise, you’re looking at a serious investment. Double or triple mountaineering boots are a must to keep your feet from freezing. Layers of high-quality, waterproof, and windproof clothing are non-negotiable. And don’t forget a big, beefy down parka. You’ll also need all the usual climbing gear – harness, helmet, ice axe, crampons, ropes, and so on. A GPS, compass, and maps are essential for finding your way across those vast glaciers. And of course, you’ll need a sled to haul all your stuff.

One more thing: Denali National Park takes “Leave No Trace” seriously. You’ll have to pack out everything you pack in, including your, ahem, “deposits,” using special Clean Mountain Cans.

Before you even set foot on the mountain, you’ll need to register with the park at least 60 days in advance and cough up the permit fee (around $400). You’ll also have to attend a pre-climb orientation at the Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station.

So, is climbing Denali hard? You bet your sweet bippy it is! It’s a brutal combination of extreme weather, high altitude, technical challenges, and logistical nightmares. But if you’re prepared, skilled, and have the mental fortitude to push through, the rewards are incredible. Just remember, Denali doesn’t give anything away for free. You’ve got to earn it.