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Posted on April 24, 2022 (Updated on July 29, 2025)

Can calla lilies grow outside?

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Can Calla Lilies Grow Outside? Let’s Get Real.

Calla lilies. Aren’t they just gorgeous? Those sleek, trumpet-shaped blooms – or spathes, if you want to get technical – and those lush green leaves… They’re a total showstopper, whether in a bouquet or a garden bed. But here’s the question I get asked all the time: Can you actually grow these beauties outside?

Well, good news! The answer is yes. Mostly. There are a few things you need to keep in mind, so let’s dive in.

First things first, let’s clear up a little botanical detail. Calla lilies aren’t really lilies. They’re part of the Zantedeschia family, which puts them in the Arum crew. Think of them as fancy cousins to things like peace lilies. They hail from sunny Southern Africa, and that gives us a big clue about their growing needs.

The most important thing? Climate, climate, climate! Calla lilies are happiest in what the USDA calls hardiness zones 8 through 11. Basically, places where winter doesn’t bring bone-chilling temperatures. If you’re in one of those zones, lucky you! You can probably leave your calla lilies right in the ground all year round.

But what if you live somewhere colder, like me? (I’m in zone 6, so I have to work a little harder.) Don’t despair! You can still enjoy calla lilies outdoors. You’ll just need to treat them like annuals – plants that only last one season – or, even better, overwinter the rhizomes indoors. Rhizomes? Those are the funky underground stems that the plants grow from. More on that later.

Now, let’s talk sunshine. Calla lilies are sun-worshippers, but they’re not crazy about scorching heat. They like a good dose of sunshine – full sun is great if you live in a cooler area. But if you’re in a hot climate, give them some afternoon shade. Think of it as their siesta time. Without enough light, you might end up with lots of leaves but not many of those gorgeous flowers.

Next up: soil. Imagine calla lilies as Goldilocks when it comes to soil. It can’t be too wet, and it can’t be too dry. It needs to be just right. Well-drained soil is key. Soggy soil? That’s a recipe for root rot, and nobody wants that. You want soil that’s rich in good stuff – organic matter is your friend here – and slightly acidic. Before planting, I always mix in some compost or well-rotted manure. It’s like giving them a nutritional boost! If your soil is heavy clay (I feel your pain!), add some sand or perlite to help with drainage.

Okay, let’s get planting!

  • Timing is everything: Wait until spring, after the last frost has waved goodbye and the soil feels nice and warm.
  • Digging in: Plant those rhizomes about 1.5 to 4 inches deep, pointy side up. Space them about 8 to 12 inches apart.
  • Watering wisely: Don’t drown them right away! Water sparingly until you see some leaves popping up. Once they’re growing, keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. If they’re in pots, they’ll probably dry out faster.
  • Feeding time: Give them a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. Don’t go overboard with the nitrogen – you want flowers, not just a ton of leaves! For container plants, a little water-soluble fertilizer every few weeks during the growing season will keep them happy.
  • Mulch it up: A layer of mulch around the base of the plants helps keep weeds away, holds in moisture, and feeds the soil.
  • Deadhead, dahling: Snip off the faded flowers to encourage more blooms. It’s like telling the plant, “Hey, great job! Now do it again!”

Alright, back to those of us in colder climates. Overwintering time! This might sound intimidating, but trust me, it’s not that hard.

  • Dig ’em up: Before the first frost, chop off the leaves and gently dig up the rhizomes.
  • Clean sweep: Brush off the dirt. Don’t wash them!
  • Let them dry: Let the rhizomes dry out in a warm spot for about a week. This helps them toughen up and avoid rotting.
  • Tuck them in: Put the rhizomes in a paper bag or box with some slightly damp peat moss, sawdust, or pine shavings. Store them in a cool, dark place – think basement or garage – where the temperature stays around 50°F.
  • Spring awakening: In the spring, replant them after the frost is gone.
  • Pests and diseases? Thankfully, calla lilies are pretty tough. But keep an eye out for aphids, spider mites, and the occasional slug or snail. Insecticidal soap or neem oil usually does the trick. As for diseases, good drainage and air circulation are your best defense.

    And finally, let’s talk variety! White calla lilies are classic, but there’s a whole rainbow of colors out there. Yellow, pink, red, even almost-black! Have fun exploring!

    So, can calla lilies grow outside? Absolutely! With a little planning and care, you can enjoy these elegant beauties in your own garden, no matter where you live. Happy gardening!

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