Five Ten Anasazi Black White – Tested and Reviewed
ReviewFive Ten Anasazi VCS: Still the King of Edges? (A Hands-On Review)
The Five Ten Anasazi VCS. Just hearing the name brings back memories: sun-drenched rock, that perfect crimp, and the sweet taste of sending a long-term project. This shoe? It’s been a legend in climbing circles for ages. But in a world overflowing with new, flashy climbing shoes, does the Anasazi VCS still deserve a spot in your pack? I recently spent some quality time with a fresh pair to see if the old magic is still there.
First Impressions: Like an Old Friend
Honestly, slipping my feet into the Anasazi VCS felt like coming home. I vividly remember my first pair way back when – the way they hugged my feet, the reassuring stiffness that gave me so much confidence. This updated version? It’s kept that classic feel. The unlined microfiber upper on this particular model felt great right away, meaning no painful break-in period. Bonus! And for those of us with slightly wider feet, the Anasazi VCS is surprisingly accommodating. I went with my usual street shoe size, a US 9, and bam – a fit that was snug enough for serious climbing, but comfy enough for a long day at the crag.
On the Rock: Where the Anasazi VCS Shines
If you’re a fan of vertical or slightly overhanging climbs, listen up. The Anasazi VCS is your weapon of choice. I took them to “The Playground,” my local crag known for its techy faces and demanding footwork. And let me tell you, the Stealth C4 rubber (a true classic, people!) stuck to those tiny edges like my grandma’s gravy to a Thanksgiving plate. I felt so planted, so secure on those oh-so-delicate placements. The way the heel cup is designed? It really does transfer power to the front of your foot, making each edge feel like a solid foothold.
I even decided to try “The Razor’s Edge” (5.12a), a climb that’s been taunting me for months. The problem? Sketchy feet. But with the Anasazi VCS, I could feel a real difference in my ability to trust those micro-edges. Did I send? Not quite (next time, Razor’s Edge, next time!). But I made it further than ever before, which speaks volumes about this shoe’s edging prowess.
Now, let’s be real. The Anasazi VCS isn’t the best choice for super steep, overhanging stuff. That stiffness that makes it so good at edging? It also limits how sensitive you feel on bigger, rounder holds. And the heel? It’s okay, but it’s not as bomber as some of the newer, more aggressive heels out there. It’ll handle basic heel hooks just fine, but if you’re planning on some crazy inverted heel maneuvers, you might want something else.
Durability and Bang for Your Buck
After weeks of climbing, the Anasazi VCS is still kicking. That Stealth C4 rubber is tough, and I’m not seeing any crazy wear and tear. Considering how well these shoes perform and how well they’re made, I’d say they’re a solid investment for any climber looking for a reliable, all-around shoe.
The Bottom Line
The Five Ten Anasazi VCS? It’s still a top contender in the world of climbing shoes. If you’re all about techy faces, edging, and vertical climbs, this is the shoe for you. Sure, it might not be the best for those wild, gymnastic routes, but its comfort, edging skills, and long-lasting build make it a winner. There’s a reason it’s a classic, and trust me, it’s still got what it takes to be king of the crag.
The Good:
- Edges like a champ
- Surprisingly comfy for a performance shoe
- Stealth C4 rubber that lasts
- Versatile enough for different climbing styles
The Not-So-Good:
- Not the best for super steep climbs
- Heel could be a bit more secure