Ang Dorje Sherpa: The Unsung Hero of Rob Hall’s Everest Expeditions

Ang Dorje Sherpa: The Unsung Hero of Rob Hall’s Everest Expeditions

We all know the story of Rob Hall, the celebrated Kiwi mountaineer, and his tragic end on Everest in ’96. A true legend. But often lost in the retelling is the crucial role played by his right-hand man, Ang Dorje Sherpa. This isn’t just a footnote; Ang Dorje was the backbone of Hall’s expeditions. Let’s shine a light on this incredible climber and his heroic actions during that infamous 1996 disaster.

So, who is Ang Dorje Sherpa? Born in the shadow of Everest, in Pangboche, Nepal, back in 1970, he practically grew up on the mountain. Imagine starting your climbing career as a porter at twelve years old! He followed in his father’s footsteps, Nima Tenzing Sherpa, who worked with the legendary Chris Bonington. Ang Dorje quickly proved himself, earning a reputation as a seriously strong and resourceful climber. By 22, he’d already stood on top of the world. And get this: as of May 2024, he’s summited Everest a mind-blowing 23 times! That’s not just experience; that’s mastery.

Ang Dorje wasn’t just any Sherpa; he was Rob Hall’s main man, the climbing Sirdar for Adventure Consultants. Hall himself knew Ang Dorje was indispensable. “My main man,” he’d say, emphasizing just how much he relied on him. Even Jon Krakauer, in “Into Thin Air,” makes it clear how vital Ang Dorje was to Hall’s team. He was the guy you wanted by your side when things got tough.

And boy, did things get tough in ’96. Hall’s expedition was hit by a sudden, brutal blizzard near the summit on May 10th. You probably know the story – eight climbers perished from various teams, making it one of the deadliest days Everest has ever seen. A complete nightmare.

During the chaotic descent, Ang Dorje came across Doug Hansen, struggling high above the Hillary Step. He pleaded with Hansen to turn back, but Hansen, so close to his dream, refused. Hall made the heartbreaking decision to stay with Hansen, who was running on fumes, while sending the other Sherpas to help the remaining clients. A leader’s choice, but one that would cost him everything.

Then, showing incredible bravery, Ang Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering Sherpa launched a rescue attempt in the teeth of that raging storm. They climbed an incredible 900 vertical meters, pushing to just below Everest’s South Summit. Can you imagine the conditions? They were a mere 100 meters from Hall, but the storm was just too fierce; they were forced to turn back. Ang Dorje later spoke of his profound sadness and the sheer impossibility of the situation. You can only imagine the weight he carried.

Despite the tragedy, Ang Dorje didn’t give up on Everest. He continued to climb, continued to guide. He’s led countless successful expeditions and earned the deep respect of the entire mountaineering community. He’s saved lives, helped climbers achieve their dreams, and proven himself time and again.

So, let’s remember Ang Dorje’s story. His role in Rob Hall’s expeditions, especially his heroic efforts in ’96, deserves to be shouted from the rooftops. He embodies the strength, resilience, and unwavering dedication of the Sherpa community, the unsung heroes who are woven into the very fabric of Mount Everest’s history. They’re not just guides; they’re family to those who dare to climb.